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Costumes

This heading is subdivided by region into: Rus and Russian Costumes -- Hungarian Costumes -- Other Costumes

Rus and Russian Costumes

Alyoshina, T. S., et al. History of Russian Costume from the 11th to the 20th Century. New York: Metropolitan Museum of Art, 1976. [EM, MSR, SEO]
Exhibit catalog. Not much of which is period, but still interesting. Also known as In the Russian Style

Amiranashvili, Shalva Iasonovich. Medieval Georgian Enamels of Russia. New York: H.N. Abrams, 1964. [MSR]

Andrews, Peter. The Rulers of Russia. Stonehenge Press, 1979.[MSR]
Extensive source of jewelry and metal work

Artsikhovskii, A. V. "Odezhda" [Costume]. In Istoriia kul'tury drevnei rusi. Domongol'skii period. I: Material'naia kul'tura. [History of the Culture of Ancient Rus'. Pre-Mongolian period. I: Material Culture.] eds. Voronin, N. N.; M. K. Karger; and M. A. Tikhanova. Moscow-Leningrad: Izdatel'stvo akademii nauk SSSR, 1948. Pages 234-62. [OKB]

____________. Russkaia odezhda X-XIIIvv: Doklady i soobscheniia istoricheskogo fakul'teta Moscovskogo universiteta [Russian Clothing of the 10th-13th Centuries: Papers and Communications of the History Faculty of Moscow University], Third Edition. Moscow, 1945.

Bocharov, G. N. Khudozhestvennyi metal drevnei rusi, X-XIII [Artistic Metalwork of Ancient Rus, 10th-13th Centuries]. Moscow: Nauka, 1984. [MSR]

"Clothing." Great Soviet Encyclopedia (Third Edition) 18: 36-42. [OKB]

Darkevich, V. P. Klad iz Staroi Riazni [Jewelry from Old Riazan]. Moscow: Nauka, 1978. [MSR]

Demi, Henry. The Firebird. New York: Holt & Co., 1994. [EM]
Beautifully illustrated, nice garb.

Dmitriev, D., illustrator. Little Horse. Moscow: Soviet Russia Publishers, 1974. [SEO]

Durasov, G. Russian Folk Clothing: From the Museum of Folk Art. Moscow: Sovetskaya Rossiya, 1990. [SEO]

Folk Costumes of the Peoples of Russia in Graphic Arts of the 18th-20th Centuries. Moscow: USSR Culture Advertising Bureau, 1990. [EM]

Goncharenko, V. and V. Narozhnaya. The Armoury Chamber: A Guidebook for the Tourist. Moscow: Progress, 1976. [SEO]

Holme, Charles. Peasant Art in Russia. London, Paris, New York: "The Studio" Ltd., 1912. [SEO]
Twentieth-century photos of period-style garb. Fair reference for regional costume difference. No bibliography, mediocre documentation.

Il Costume Russo dalla Fine del' 700 All'inizio del' 900. Turin, 1984/Messina, 1985.
Museum catalog

Kalashnikova, Natalia and Galina Pluzhnikova. National Costumes of the Soviet Peoples. Moscow: Planets, 1990. [SEO]

Kireyeva, E. V. The History of Costume. Translated by Tatiana N. Tumanova. Moscow: Enlightenment, 1970. [SEO, MSR, OKB]

Kondakov, I. P. Izobrazheniia russkoi kniazheskoi semyi v miniatiuakh XI veka [Images of the Princely Family in Miniatures of the 11th Century]. Saint Petersburg, 1906.

Kud', L. N. Kostium i ukrasheniia drevneruskoi zhenshchiny [The Costume and Jewelry of an Ancient-Russia Women]. Kiev, 1914.

Mertsalova, M. N., et al. "Sarafan." Great Russian Encyclopedia (Third Edition) 22: 618.

Perleberg, Hans. Historical Russian Costumes, XIV-XVIII century: Worn by the Russian Imperial Family and Their Guests at the Ball in the Winter Palace, St. Petersberg, on February 27, 1903. New York, n.d.[OKB, SEO]

Rabotnov, I. P. Russkaia narodnaia odezhda [Russian National Costume]. Moscow: Legkaia industriia, 1964. [SEO]

Russian Folk Clothing. Leningrad: Khudoznik, 1984.

Russian Theater and Costume Designs. San Francisco: The Fine Arts Museums of San Francisco, 1979. [EM]
Mostly pen and ink drawings of costumes for ballets and plays.

Russkii istoricheskii kostium dlia stseny [Russian Historical Costume for the Stage]. Edited by Nadezhda Vladimirovna Giliarovskaia. Moscow: Iskusstvo, 1945. [IMR]
The first half of this book consists of numerous photographs of medieval sources: icons, manuscript illuminations, etc. The second half gives useful information on how to reproduce various forms of medieval garments, both masculine and feminine.

Sedova, M. V. Iuvelirnye drevnego Novgoroda: X-XV vv. [Ancient Novgorodian Jewelry]. Moscow: Nauka, 1981. [MSR]

Sichel, Marion. National Costume Reference: USSR. London: B.T. Batsford, Ltd, 1986. [EM]
Regional costume, mostly pen and ink drawings.

Soraya Evodia of Odessa. "An Introduction to Russian Costume." The Compleat Anachronist 35 (January 1988). [OKB, SEO]

Strekalov, S. S. Russkie istoricheskie odezhdy ot X do XIII vv sostavlenyi risovany S. Strekalovym [Russian Historical Costumes from the 10th to the 13th Centuries, Collected and Drawn by S. Strekalov], Vypusk I. St. Petersburg, 1877. [OKB]

Sukharev, O.A. Folk Costume of the People of Central Asia. Moscow: Nauka, 1979. [SEO]

Tsukanov, M.P. Treasures from the Kremlin: Textiles and Needlework. New York: Metropolitan Museum of Art, 1979. [SEO]

Yefimova, L. Folk Russian Costume from the Historical Museum in Moscow. Moscow: Sovetskaya Rossiya, 1989. [SEO]

Zvorykin, Boris, illustrator. Boris Gudunov. New York: Viking Press, 1982. [SEO, OKB]

___________. The Firebird. New York: Viking Press, 1982. [SEO,OKB]


Hungarian Costumes

Gaborjan, Alice and Gyula Ortutay. Hungarian Peasant Costumes, Second Edition. New York: Puski Publishing, 1988. [KA]

Garam, Eva and Attila Kiss. Gold Finds of the Migration Period in the Hungarian National Museum. Budapest: Helikon, 1992. [KA]
Covers gold items, dating fro period of Hungarian migration to present-day Hungary, produced by Avars and other peoples.

Gero, Gyozo. The Tomb of Gul Baba. Budapest: Budapesti Torteneti Muzeum, 1971? [KA]
Description of exhibit of Budapest tomb of 16th-century Ottoman figure. Includes photo of undated Turkish miniature of late 14th-century Moslem mendicant order and photo of part of inside of tomb.

Gervers, Veronika. The Influence of Ottoman Turkish Textiles and Costume in Eastern Europe, with Particular Reference to Hungary. Toronto: Royal Ontario Museum, 1982. The title says it all.

Hollrigl, Jozsef Aladar. Historic Hungarian Costumes. Budapest: Officina, 1939.


Other Costumes

Alexandra, Geta, din Wallachia, and Istvan din Brasov [Patricia and Kenneth Dretzka]. "Recreating the Mente -- An East European Nobleman's Coat." Tournaments Illuminated 96 (Fall 1990): 28-32. [PWT, OKB]

Barber, Elizabeth Wayland, "On the Antiquity of East European Bridal Clothing," Dress 21: 17-29.
Traces the back apron worn by married women through period to paleolithic sources.

Bartkiewicz, Magdalena. Polski Uboir do 1864 roku. Zaklad Narodowy imiena Ossolinskich Wydawnictwo, 1979. [MSR]
Lots of illustrations of garments, shoes, and so on, from Poland 10th-19th century, but text entirely in Polish.

Borachynska, Lydia. "Folk Dress." Ukrainian Arts. Compiled by Olya Dmytriw. New York: Ukrainian Youth's League of North America, Inc., 1952. [JZ]

Brown, Ruth A. Baltic Folk Costumes. Los Angeles: Rosewood Press, 1990. [EM, KS]
Paper dolls - beautiful color costumes labeled with countries and regions (Estonia, Latvia, Lithuania).

Bruhn, Wolfgang and Max Tilke. A Pictorial History of Costume. New York: Frederick A. Praeger, 1955.

Drevnaia odezhda narodov vostochnoi evropy [Ancient Costume of the Peoples of Eastern Europe]. Moscow: Nauka, 1986.
Series of scholarly articles with some pictures.

Evers, Inge. Feltmaking:Techniques and Projects. Asheville NC: Lark Books, 1987. [KA]

Fairservis, Walter A., Jr. Costumes of the East. The Chatham Press, 1971. [EM]
Ethnohistorical study with nice garb and regional variations. [The author was the real-life model for Indiana Jones -- ed]

Folk Costumes of Europe. Rendered by Susan Johnston. New York: Dover Books, 1977. [EM]
A coloring book based on Historical Costumes in Pictures. Contains enlarged line drawings that are good for fabric and color tests.

Grabowicz, Oksana. Traditional Designs in Ukrainian Textiles. New York: The Ukrainian Museum, 1977. [SEO]

Kaarma, Melanie and Aino Voolman. Eesti rahvaroivad [Estonian Folk Costume]. Tallinn: Eesti Ramat, 1981.

Kelley, Eric P. The Trumpeter of Krakow. New York: Macmillan Co, 1928. [KS]
The descriptions of costumes were actually taken from another source (Mateijko -- see below).

Kovacevic, Jovan. Die Mittelalterliche Tracht der Balkanlander. Belgrade, 1953. [MSR]
Plenty of pictures and drawings but in Cyrillic with German subtitles. Some historical context.

Manolescu, Radu. Comertul Tarii Romanesti si Moldevei cu Brasouval, Secolele 14th-16th. Bucharest, 1965. [MSR]
Mostly text but excellent if you have a dictionary and some patience.

Mateiko, K. I. Ukrainskii narodnii odiag [Ukrainian Folk Costume]. Kiev: Naukova dumka, 1977.

Mateijko, Jan. Costumes in Poland of Other Days. Krak'ow, Wydawn: Literackie, 1967. [KS, MSR]
Covers 1228-1333. The pictures are also used in Racinet's 1987 full color pictorial history of western costumes.

Nahachewsky, Kim. The Costume of Bukovyna. Edmonton: University of Alberta, 1987. [KCh]

Nicolescu, Corina. Istoria Costumului de Curte in Tarile Romane, 14th-18th Seceole. Bucharest: Editura Stintifica, 1970. [MSR]
Very good overview of Romanian and Moldavian artifacts, portraits, and monastery murals of period costume for both sexes. A very good source for primary documentation.

Petruscu, P. and E. Secosan. Portul Popular de Sarbatore din Romania. Bucharest: Editura Meridiane, 1984. [BB]
One of the best, as it separates the clothing into distinct "states" that exist, and regions within the state.

_____________. Romanian Folk Costume. Bucharest: Editura Meridiane, 1985. [BB]
Good presentation and luckily in English.

Scarce, Jennifer. Women's Costume of the Near East and Middle east. London: Unwin Hyman Ltd., 1987. [APD]
Lots of pictures and patterns for Ottoman garments in period and covering Eastern Europe to India.

Sronkova, Olga. Fashions Through the Centuries: Renaissance, Baroque, and Rococo. London: Spring Books, 1959.
Czech historical costumes with pictures.

Stamerov, K. K. Narysy z istorii kostiumiv, pt 1 [An Outline of the History of Costumes]. Kiev: Mysletstvo, 1978.

Tilke, Max. Costume Pattern and Design. Tubingen, Germany: Ernst Wasmuth Verlag, 1990. [EM]
Color illustrations and layouts covering Eastern Europe.

___________. The Costumes of Eastern Europe. Berlin: Ernst Wasmuth Ltd., 1925. [SEO]

Tkach, Yuri. History of Ukrainian Costume. Melbourne: Bayda Books, 1986. [OKB, EM, KCh]
Very good source for early Russian and Ukrainian garb. Good bibliography and fair drawings.

Tkanyna: An Exhibit of Ukrainian Weaving. Downsview ON: University of Toronto Press, 1988. [KCh]

Turnan, Irena. European Occupational Dress from the Fourteenth to the Eighteenth Century. Warsaw: Institute of Archeology and Ethnology, 1994. [MSR]

___________. History of Dress in Central and Eastern Europe from the Sixteenth to the Eighteenth Century. Warsaw: Institute of the History of Material Culture, 1991. [MSR]
Excellent source book whose research was done at the actual museums in Eastern Europe and Russia with several coat patterns, illustrations, and portraits.

___________. Polskie Skornichtwo. Zaklad Norowdowy imiena Ossolinskich, 1983. [MSR]
Shoes and some Hussar horse tack with detailed history of leatherworking industry in Medieval Poland. Text in Polish but extensive illustrations (10th-14th, 17th-18th centuries).

___________. Ubior Narowdowy w dawnej Rzezczypospolitej. Warsaw: Semper, 1991. [MSR]
Extensive detail in fabric, styles, and construction of garments from all levels of Polish society 15th-18th centuries. Summary in English.

Ukranian Folk Costume. Philadelphia: World Federation of Ukranian Women's Organizations, 1992. [EM]
Meticulous breakdown by region with details on construction and methods (text in Ukranian/English).

Vecellio, Cesare. Vecellio's Renaissance Costume Book. New York: Dover Books, 1977. [KA, MSR]
Includes numerous woodcuts of Turkish and Central European costumes.

Wilccox, R. Turner. Folk and Festival Costume of the World. New York: Macmillan, 1989. [EM]
An illustrated encyclopedia of countries. Reasonably good for garb.

Yarwood, Doreen. The Encyclopedia of World Costume. New York: Bonanza Books, 1978. [EM]


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